The Autococker is synonymous with being finicky. While it can be, it generally is quite reliable. In this article, I’ll discuss the most common problems and how to fix them and map out an example for upgrading your current ‘Cocker.
To date, I have owned four Autocockers, two of which being custom built. While that number is not high, my undying need to tinker has lead me to explore the inner workings and in that process, I have grown very familiar with this wonderful piece of paint throwing machinery. We’ll begin our journey through this pneumatic piece of art starting at the top and working our way down.
A lot of players will go to chronograph their guns and they won’t fire properly. Either the gun won’t fire but will cycle, or it will make a farting noise. Or, the gun won’t cycle at all. There are a few things I check:
With the design of the Autococker, it is very easy for the cycling (especially at high rates of fire) for the cocking rod to vibrate itself loose. When your cocking rod is not screwed in all the way, the back block won’t pull the hammer back to catch the sear. This will cause your paint gun to just load balls into the breech.
If you’ve checked the cocking rod, and its in as far as it will go, and the hammer still refuses to catch the sear, try lowering the sear lug through the small hole on the top of the gun. A long ended 1/8” Allen is required for this task. You must also degas and remove the bolt first. The gun must be un-cocked in order to access the sear lug. Simply push forward on the cocking rod to move the striker forward enough to get the Allen wrench in the hex socket of the lug. Turning clockwise will lower the lug, be careful not to lower it too far, as then you wont be able to release it, and you’ll have to remove the trigger frame to fix it.
If the gun won’t cycle at all, then you need to increase your rock reg pressure. This is the smaller reg unit on the front of the gun. Most have external adjustments located on the front of the unit. WGP’s stock unit is internally adjusted, and requires removing the hose and unscrewing the housing. Clockwise is up, counter is down. A good starting point for this pressure is to back it all the way out and hold the trigger back as you slowly turn the pressure up. The back block should move quickly, but be spongy. Give it another ¼ turn for good measure and leave it.
If none of this works, then there is most likely something in err with the timing of the gun. This process can be tricky, if you don’t feel comfortable with it, by all means take your gun to a qualified technician. If you feel up to it, then read the section on timing further down.
When properly tuned, the Autococker is arguably the most consistent gun available. However, it does not take a lot to affect velocity on this particular marker. There is a checklist I like to go by when solving velocity problems:
One thing I have seen many newer cocker owners (as well as seasoned ones) do is put their bolt in upside down. While this has no long-term negative effect on the marker, it is rather harmful to one’s ego. An upside down bolt will result in near silence when cycling the gun (there is no “pop” sound caused by air escaping down the barrel) and balls will either not leave the barrel, or merely drop out at distances maxing out at only a few feet.
Spring tension is the most common way to adjust velocity, it is done at the rear of the marker after removing the cocking rod. A long ended 3/16” allen wrench is needed for this adjustment. A clockwise turn will increase velocity, and a counter-clockwise turn will decrease it. Don’t turn too much at a time, as this method makes a drastic impact on velocity. A quarter turn can change velocity up to 20fps.
Changing the main spring or valve spring is a very good fix for a potential problem. If you cant quite get your velocity up by turning your adjuster all the way in, then a STIFFER main spring or LIGHTER valve spring can be used. It is much easier to change a main spring than it is to change a valve spring. The valve must be removed first in order to change this spring, which requires a valve tool. So lets stick with the main spring for now. Most stores offer nelson spring kits for between $8 and $15. A spring kit could be one of the best investments made in any marker. To change a main spring, simply remove the bolt, cocking rod and velocity adjuster. You may need to swing the back block over to the side to keep it out of the way, or remove it all together. Once the velocity adjusting screw is removed, you can pull the main spring out and replace it with one that is lighter (to reduce velocity) or stiffer (to increase velocity). Most kits are color coded to let you know which spring is heaviest and which is lightest.
Input pressure is the secondary adjustment, and if you are using the stock reg, requires a bit more disassembly to access the internal adjustment point. Unless an aftermarket reg is used, I would not recommend adjusting input pressure. It would be wiser to change your main spring. In most aftermarket regs, adjusting inwards (Clockwise) will increase and counterclockwise will decrease pressure, which in turn will lower velocity. Most cockers I have encountered enjoyed the 300-450psi range.
Timing an autococker can be an intimidating task if you don’t know what you are doing. But, once you learn, its quite easy and can be done somewhat quickly. Some can even time an autococker in a moving vehicle.
There are three main places to adjust timing: the sear lug, the 4-way, and the cocking rod. Some argue the rock pressure, but that’s not going to change order, just speed and reliability. First, slowly pull the trigger to see what happens when. First, the gun should fire, then it should start the cocking cycle. With the trigger held in the rearward position, the breech should be open and cocking rod engaged. Upon releasing the trigger, the lug should catch the sear and the breech should close.
If the gun is cycling before it fires. You can do two things; either raise the lug, which will cause it to be release earlier in the cycle, or you can delay the 4-way actuator. Both adjustments may be necessary. To delay the 4-way, the coupler should be rotated toward the bottom (clockwise). To actuate the 4-way earlier, screw the coupler onto the linkage rod(often called timing rod) farther.
The sear lug is the easiest adjustment, and controls when the paintball is fired in the cycle. Moving the lug down (clockwise) will result in a longer delay before firing in the trigger pull. Raising the lug (counter-clockwise) will fire the gun sooner in the cycle.
The cocking rod is one of those subtle things that people may not realize. If it’s too far in, then the bolt wont clear the breech and you’ll get chops during rapid fire. If it’s too far out then the sear wont reliably catch the lug and can cause misfires or double feeds. To get the cocking rod set to the right length, you want the bolt face to be flush with the back of the feed tube when the cocking rod and back block are in their full rearward position, use your finger to feel where its at.
Care should be taken when your gun is in good working order not to impede its ability to throw paint. This means keeping it oiled and clean between games. I’ve found that air tool oil is the best lube for these guns and just a few drops in the asa before you screw on a tank (after playing) is sufficient. Use the air in the tank to propel the oil throughout the workings of your gun by dry-firing until the tank is empty.
Oiling should take place after cleaning any goop out of your gun. A spray bottle with water and a couple drops of dawn dish soap works magnificently. Dry the outside with a soft cloth and use a rinse solution of 50/50 water and alcohol (rubbing alcohol, not your favorite brew) to expedite evaporation of the internals. Some manufactures recommend a quick bath (PPS even states that you can take your marker into the shower with you after a game, so long as you dry it out thoroughly.) the water/alcohol solution is a rinse bath before oiling and gassing up your marker.
Short stroking mechanical cockers seems to be quite common also. Short stroking is when you begin to release the trigger before it has been pulled completely. Often times this is done in rapid fire, and causes double feeds and sometimes the occasional chop. Again, this is not harmful to your marker, just your ego.
While the stock autococker is a good performer, there are some things that I’d do differently right away. Some things can be held off until later, some things don’t need to be touched. If you were starting out with a stock cocker, the first things I would upgrade would be the barrel and the reg. The Palmer stabilizer is arguably one of the best regs on the market, and is hands down the best for CO2. For a barrel, if the budget permits, get a large selection of bore sizes, either as a kit or full size barrels. The J&J Ceramic barrel is a great barrel for a budget. Also, Site Manufacturing has come out with a new carbon fiber barrel that has caught the eyes of many players.
For down the line upgrades, a Palmer Quick Pro Kit is highly recommended, and the addition of QEVs (quick exhaust valves) help increase ROF. The Palmer valve is also a favorite of mine. A really nice upgraded bolt is the Delrin bolt by JAM Enterprises. This bolt is somewhat new and quite inventive; an internal spring actually prevents chops. Plus the Delrin construction reduces both weight and friction. The only other performance upgrades I can really recommend would be the Jackal hammer kit, which has a slight taper toward the rear, so that it does not drag upon the velocity adjuster threads. Another neat idea from the guys at Jackal Machine. Lastly, to make a mechanical trigger smoother, a roller sear can be fitted into an existing frame, or any upgraded frame of your choice.
There are an unlimited amount of cosmetic upgrades also available. The one that comes quickest to mind is Doc Nickel’s Flattop gas block. This replaces your stock 2k or newer banjo bolt that attaches your front pneumatics block to the body of your gun. It installs flush to the surface of the pneumatics block, allowing more room for the pneumatics. This is offered in either brushed or polished stainless steel. Doc also offers a twist on pump arms, available in polished stainless, the pump arm is hand twisted to give a unique look. Different styles of cocking rods and beaver tails are available as well. You can also get angled vertical air adaptors, which help make the gun a bit more ergonomic. Not to mention, it also looks bad ass.
If I were to build another cocker from scratch (which I would, if I still used semi auto guns) these are the parts that I would use. Keep in mind these are my personal preferences and some parts you may want to change.
Well, I hope you’ve learned enough to get by with your WGP Autococker or similar automated cocking gun. Remember, play safe, play fair, have fun!
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